I think the trick is to saponify small er pieces of soap as opposed to one large loaf. For instance, I think it would be easier to achieve gel in a large mass of soap due to the saponification heat being maintained in a larger body of soap. That depends on your recipe. For most recipes I wait 48 hours to unmold most of my soap recipe to make sure they are nice and hard.
Some recipes can take up to a week or longer to harden up, like castile recipes. Using Sodium Lactate can help your recipes harden up faster. That sounds like a great recipe. Though without the Sodium Lactate and using a silicone mold the soap will take longer harden. To help speed this along you can put your soap in the freezer for about 24 hours. This will make the soap easier to unmold. Then wait another hours with the soap unmolded to cut your bars. It reached thick trace very quickly when I was blending it.
I used tea as the liquid. Could that make it soft? Should I even be worried at this point? Did you use a silicone mold? You should be able to remove it in a few more days! I was still able to leave finger indents in the top when I checked it yesterday.
It sounds like it is just because it is in a ramekin that it is still so soft. It should definitely still be safe to use and should slowly continue to harden up throughout the cure. I am not sure if this is the right section, but on some other posts that were more related, I was not able to post a comment.
Anyway, some of my soaps CP where opaque with no gel phase after curing period. But after using some soaps for some days, they started becoming translucent and softer in the translucent area. Is there an explanation for this? How did you store your soap, and how long did it cure? The center may have gelled a bit, causing that partial gel. It helps to keep it in a dry area on a draining soap dish.
Is there a way to test the soap before curing process? Since the curing process is long is there a way to check if the soap will be good after it gets cured. After about 5 days the soap is safe to use on the skin so you can give it a try. However, soap performs best when it cures, so we recommend waiting the full weeks. I want to try to turn it into liquid soap and use in the shower.
My question is, do I still have to let it cure before trying to turn into liquid? Thanks, Cindy. What was in the recipe, and how long has it been curing? After then it will get harder and will have more lather. If after then you still want to rebatch it, you can mix it with a hard soap made with hard oils like coconut and palm. But I am not sure on what type of bar that it will produce. Would it have a lot of lather or not much? Will it be soft or hard? On bramble berry. Thank you for your time and any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
That recipe looks good! It should be balanced and have some nice lather. I cannot find how much lye to add to the batch of soap. I have missed that measurement somewhere.
Can you give me the amount in the coconut milk recipe. I made 3 recipes before but after using I had the same problem in all of them ,which is the bar of soap start to be soft and sticky after 2 or 3 days using where is the mistake? I used mixed of coconut oil,olive oil and palm oil with the lye only. How long did you let that soap cure? There are a few tricks to making your bars last longer in the shower.
Because the bars have a high amount of soft oil, they will be on the softer side. It also helps to add 1 tsp. Are there any concerns or risks about adding the remaining lye dissolved in a bit of water and mixing it really really well in the rebatch? Instead, I would recommend rebatching the soap with equal or double the amount of a hard soap. That will make the bar more balanced. Another thing that can cause a soft bar is old lye.
So fresh lye is a must! When I made my pumpkin spice soap, I forgot to discount the extra liquid from the pureed pumpkin. Result: soft soap that took weeks to harden. It was supposed to be ready for Halloween, but ended up being a Christmas soap. And that was despite using sodium lactate. The extra liquid from that pumpkin will definitely soften the soap! The good news is it will make amazing Christmas gifts.
That way you can see how the wax works. Great info! The only fragrance oil I have ever had this problem with is lavender. I rarely am able to get it clean out of the mold without leaving the corners behind or making dents in it, I leave it for up to 5 days and have tried putting it in the freezer. Also when mixing my colorants, I just use a tablespoon of my soap batch oils, so I never am adding any extra oil. Maybe a recipe with more hard oils or sodium lactate would help when using lavender.
Yes its weird. By cutting your soap too soon, you not only risk handling soap that is too harsh for skin contact, but also risk the development of a thick, icing-like layer of pesky soda ash on the tops, sides, and bottoms of your soap. We recommend that students perform a simple zap-test prior to unmolding and cutting your soap in order to reduce these risks.
Your soap should be hard enough to cut without causing damage to your beautiful creation and it should be zap-free. If your soap is not hard enough to cut after twelve hours, contrary to what most beginners believe, that is absolutely OK!
Your soap may need to stay in the mold for several hours, or it may need to remain in the mold for several days. If the soap is still too soft to cut, leaving it in the mold does NOT do any harm! I have several recipes that are made with higher water concentrations and lots of unsaturated fatty acids that must remain molded for up to three full days prior to cutting.
Although it may be very tempting to cut your soap early, you are stronger than you think and you can resist! No matter how excited you may be, by slowing down and cutting your soap at the right time, rather than rushing, you can ensure that you discover your beautiful soapy creation, without the risk of personal harm, damage to your soap, or the formation of dusty soda ash.
What can I add to soap base? They're easy enough to make yourself simply by adding those ingredients directly to melted glycerin soap base. Can you remelt soap? Rebatching is taking soap that has already been made and giving it new life it by grating it, melting it, and then adding any additional colors, fragrances or additives you want. Think of it as a soap "do-over. How do you water discount soap? Water discounting helps the soap release from the mold faster. Using less water also results in a shorter curing and drying time, as there is less water to evaporate from the soap.
Soapers may also choose to water discount if the recipe contains additives that naturally contain water, like fruit or vegetable purees. How much salt do you put in soap? Why did my soap turn brown? Often fragrance oils that contains a high amount of Vaniilin will turn soap brown. Also, the color will be a darker brown with scented oils with higher amounts of Vanillin. We can use Vanilla White Color Stabilizer to reduce these effects and still use the scent.
How soon can you use homemade soap? Why do you have to let soap cure? The soap is removed from the mold and cut into bars. As the soap continues to cure, most of the water used in the recipe evaporates. The curing process insures a milder, harder, longer lasting bar, with a very rich lather. How long does it take to make soap at home?
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